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Tag: 1940’s fashion

Vintage Fashion Designer Spotlight: Ceil Chapman

Ceil Chapman was an American fashion designer who worked in New York City from the 1940s to the 1960s. She was noted for creating glamorous cocktail and party dresses and for working with celebrity clients including television and movie actresses.

1950s vintage image of Debbie Reynolds tries on a 1950s wedding dress with the help of designer Ceil Chapman.

Image:1950s image of Debbie Reynolds tries on a wedding dress with the help of designer Ceil Chapman. (Photo by Seymour Wally/NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images)

For today’s ‘Vintage Fashion Designer‘ spotlight, we will be learning about Ceil’s background in fashion and then taking a look at her stunning fashion designs (as seen thru vintage ads, vintage images & real life dresses avail to purchase).

Let the fashion show begin!

“Here’s one house that understands the importance of the cocktail dress,” 

Women’s Wear Daily 
Vintage image of Fashion Designer 1940s-1970s Ceil Chapman
1950s Fashion Designer: Ceil Chapman-1950s Fashion label


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Note: If you click on an item and it is no longer available, don’t fret! The websites I have provided are updated daily with 1000’s of new & vintage items. Just do a quick search and see what you find.


Vintage Fashion Designer Spotlight: Ceil Chapman

Highlights of Ceil’s Life & Career:

  • Born Cecilia Mitchell (1912), she spent her childhood in Rosebank, Staten Island. She moved to Manhattan with her family as a teenager.

  • As a young girl, Chapman designed and made her own clothes. She made her first formal dress when she was 15 years old.

  • She became a Chapman when she married her first husband Samuel, with whom she went into business in 1940.

  • According to her son, Peter Chapman, Ceil Chapman had no formal design training, but learned by working as a “buyer and business woman in the fashion industry”.

  • Peter also stated, that she had design skills akin to engineering and indeed, if one studies her skillful draping and tucking and folding of fabric, it is clear as to what he meant.

  • She wore exclusively black during the day, and almost always wore white for evening functions.

  • She never attended French fashion shows, preferring not to be influenced by Paris when designing for American woman.

  • Chapman was among those who succeeded in adapting Christian Dior’s “New Look” for relatively affordable cocktail wear targeted toward the American ready-to-wear market.

  • Chapman patented numerous designs between 1954 and 1960.

  • Ceil Chapman was reportedly Marilyn Monroe’s favorite fashion designer.

  • She provided the trousseau for Elizabeth Taylor’s 1950 wedding to Conrad “Nicky” Hilton.

  • Other celebrity clients included Deborah Kerr, Greer Garson, Grace Kelly and Aretha Franklin.

  • Several of Chapman’s designs, including a 1948 wedding dress, a late 1940s dress, and three 1950s cocktail dresses, are in the collection of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

  • Chapman died after a two-year illness on Friday, July 13, 1979 (Source).

Further reading about Ceil’s life HERE.


Her Fashion Designs as seen in Vintage Images and Vintage Advertising

Barbara Mullen in Ceil Chapman, photo by Toni Frissell, Washington D.C., Vogue, 1952

1950s Fashion: Barbara Mullen in Ceil Chapman, photo by Toni Frissell, Washington D.C., Vogue, 1952 - 1950s Evening gown / 1950s Dress

Source: Pinterest

Firth Floor Coverings – 1951 featuring a 1950s housewife in a Ceil Chapman dress.

Ceil was astute and derived additional income by lending her name and stylish image for advertising purposes to include Cadillac, which featured elegantly Chapman-dressed models draped over luxury cars. Ceil even appeared, pictured in her studio, in advertisements on behalf of Western Union Telegrams and Playtex (Source).

1950s Vintage Ad for Firth Floor Coverings - 1951 featuring a 1950s housewife in a Ceil Chapman dress. Super Early 1950s Home decor ad.

Source: eBay

As mentioned above here is a Western Union Telegram ad featuring Ceil, photo by Peter Benech, 1956.

1950s vintage ad: American fashion designer Ceil Chapman for Western Union Telegram ad, photo by Peter Benech, 1956

Source: Pinterest

Late 1940s Fashion-1949 Hollywood, CA- Vivid green, coral blue and yellow are combined in the tropical print frock by Ceil Chapman, designed for actress Elizabeth Taylor’s own wardrobe. The colorful afternoon dress features a deep plunging neckline and a pert stand-up collar. The full skirt, with deep pockets hidden in its folds, is topped by a fitted, short-sleeved bodice and a self belt.

Late 1940s Fashion-1949 Hollywood, CA- Vivid green, coral blue and yellow are combined in the tropical print frock by Ceil Chapman, designed for actress Elizabeth Taylor's own wardrobe. The colorful afternoon dress features a deep plunging neckline and a pert stand-up collar. The full skirt, with deep pockets hidden in its folds, is topped by a fitted, short-sleeved bodice and a self belt.

Source: Getty Images

Gown by Ceil Chapman in an ‘Old Gold’ cigarette ad, 1951.

1950s vintage ad for old gold cigarettes featuring a 1950s evening gown by Ceil Chapman

Source: Pinterest

1950s vintage photo of Marilyn Monroe in Korea 1954 in a Ceil Chapman designed purple dress. Marilyn loved the dress so much she asked the designer to make her an identical dress in black.

1950s vintage photo of Marilyn Monroe in Korea 1954 in a Ceil Chapman designed purple dress. Marilyn loved the dress so much she asked the designer to make her an identical dress in black.

Source: Pinterest

1954 Vogue Magazine image of fashion model Evelyn Tripp in a Ceil Chapman gown.

1950s vintage image of Evelyn Tripp Wearing a 1950s dress by Ceil Chapman in 1954 vogue magazine

Source: Fine Art America

1960s Vintage Ad for Kotex featuring a 1962 dress by Ceil Chapman and a Ford Galaxie 500 Convertible.

1960s Vintage Ad for Kotex featuring a 1962 Dress by Ceil Chapman and a Ford Galaxie 500 Convertible.

Source: eBay

Model in layered and ruffled nylon tulle gown, Vogue, October 1, 1950 for ‘William Winklers-Nylon tulle.’

1950s Fashion ad as seen in Vogue: Model in layered and ruffled nylon tulle gown by Ceil Chapman, Vogue, October 1, 1950 for Winklers-Nylon tulle.

Source: Pinterest

1955 Vintage ad for Galey & Lord.

“PARTY MANNERS – The “little-girl-look” assumes a sophisticated manner with the famous Ceil Chapman touch. For that demure but very delectable air…a winged collar and pyramids of white crocheted lace. On gossamer Galey & Lord cotton, of course”.

1950s vintage ad for Galey & Lord featuring a 1950s Dress by Ceil Chapman

Source: Pinterest

I just finishd travelling for a month and let me tell you, having outfits that can do multiple things is a MUST. I just love that Ceil feels the same way with this long skirt that has matching shorts. Plus you can wear the jacket or not for either outfit. Love it! -1950s magazine layout.

1950s Fashion: Travel Outfit by Ceil Chapman for women featuring a skirt that becomes shorts.

Source: Alamy.com

Dressmaker Suit as seen in a 1950s Spadea Pattern Catalog (avail HERE as of April 2023).

Spadea Brand patterns were publicized in Life magazine during the 1950s and 1960s and sold via mail order. The catalog states: American Designers Patterns are original current models from the finest American houses by the top fashion creators in the country. The individuality of the designers, their handling of material… their theories of design are faithfully and strictly followed – so when you buy an American Designers Pattern, you are buying the blueprint of the original, not a copy (Source-Etsy)

1950s Fashion: Ceil Chapman Dressmaker Suit as seen in a 1950s Spadea Pattern Catalog

Source-Etsy CloesCloset

Spadea designer sewing pattern from the 1950s. This cocktail dress design by Ceil Chapman is incredibly flattering with a wide, scooped neckline, bodice and skirt drapery, and short sleeves.

1950s Fashion / 1950s Sewing Pattern: Spadea designer sewing pattern from the 1950s. This cocktail dress design by Ceil Chapman is incredibly flattering with a wide, scooped neckline, bodice and skirt drapery, and short sleeves
1950s Fashion: 1950s dress for evening by Ceil Chapman shown next to it's sewing pattern Fashion Illustration.

Source: Etsy – Mrsdewpew

1952 Fashion ad: “Charm handled in the Ceil Chapman manner – black embroidery etched on bright white organdy, with jersey top $110”.

1950s vintage ad from 1952 featuring a 1950s skirt and top by Ceil Chapman at the French Shop

Source: eBay

Examples of Ceil Champman in “Real Life”

1950’s Ceil Chapman powder blue silk satin, white tulle skirt evening gown.

1950s Fashion: Vintage 1950's Ceil Chapman powder blue silk satin, white tulle skirt evening gown.
1950s Fashion: Vintage 1950's Ceil Chapman powder blue silk satin, white tulle skirt evening gown.

Source: 1stdibs.com

1950s fit and flare shape satin gown in a dusty blue.

1950s Fashion: 1950s fit and flare shape satin gown in a dusty blue by Ceil Chapman

Source: Etsy – VintageBibandTucker

1950s Wedding Dress by Ceil Chapman.

Silver beads, crystas, paillettes and cord floral vine design peplum skirt. Strapless, boned bodice has fold over petal.

Rich and luxurious duchesse satin has beautiful drape and movement.

1950s Fashion / 1950s Wedding Dress. 1950s Ceil Chapman wedding dress.

Source: Vintage Bride

1958 silk tulle & taffeta ballgown in a couple of shades of green. Love those colours!

1950s fashion: 1958 silk tulle & taffeta ballgown in a couple of shades of green by Ceil Chapman - 1950s Vintage Fashion designer.

Source: Getty Images

The 1940s dress below is just so simple it is stunning. A 1940s black silk shantung evening dress (avail as of April 2023 HERE).

1940s Fashion: Vintage 1940s Ceil Chapman Black Silk Shantung Evening Dress.

Source: Etsy – CarnelianVintage

1940s Ceil Chapman Dress – Burnt Orange with a high shawl collar (avail as of April 2023 HERE).

1940s fashion: Vintage 1940s Ceil Chapman Dress - Burnt Orange - High Shawl Collar

Source: Etsy – bellofbow

1960s long sleeve sequin stripes cocktail party dress (avail as of April 2023 HERE).

1960s Fashion: 1960s Ceil Chapman Dress Tight Black Pencil Dress Long Sleeve Sequin Stripes Cocktail Party Dress

Source: Etsy – Frockittome

1950s Ceil Chapman jewelled rhinestone tear drop black velvet shelf bust dress.

1950s Fashion: 1950s Ceil Chapman Jewelled Rhinestone Tear Drop Black Velvet Shelf Bust Dress

Source: shrimptoncouture.com

I am now going to end this post with my dream dress. DREAM! A 1940s silk chiffon gown in a tropical / floral print. Those colours! Drool.

1940s Fashion: 1940s silk chiffon gown in a tropical / floral print by Ceil Chapman.

Source: liveauctiioneers.com

So many beautiful dresses & cool ads but so little space for this post! I hope you enjoyed learning about Ceil and seeing her stunning creations. I really enjoyed putting this together for you. Share you favourites in the comment section below!


Vintage Shopping: There were so many dresses avail for purchase on Etsy that I have started a collection of them on the site so you can take a look at that ones I could not show on this post. Take a look at the vintage dresses HERE.


Further Reading:

Thanks for dropping by!

Liz

‘THE HOUSE OF LUCAS’ – An Australian Vintage Fashion Label

The Internet can once in a while be a lovely place filled with vintage advertising of fashions gone by that are still gorgeous and fantastic, LIKE what I stumbled upon at the Archives.org website.

This delightful September 20th, 1941 fashion ad for ‘Spectator Sportswear by Lucas‘. Such dreamy dresses!

1940s Vintage Ad: 1941 advertisement for Lucas Spectator Sportswear -1940s Fashion Ad.

Source: Archive.org

After I saw this ad, I started doing some research on “The House of Lucas” and stumbled upon while not a lot of content, still enough that I know I had to share it with my readers. So that is what today’s post is all about!

‘THE HOUSE OF LUCAS’

An Australian Vintage Fashion Label

The House of Lucas-E Lucas and Co. The family-owned firm operated in Ballarat (Victoria, Australia) from 1888 to 1968, employing hundreds and putting Ballarat on the map as a producer of fashion.

ABOUT (Excerpt-Weekly Times Now Australia):

The fashion house was created by founder Eleanor Lucas who was widowed in 1878 and began sewing underwear and shirts from home to support her family. When Eleanor was widowed again in 1888, she launched her own sewing firm.

Successful from the outset, by 1908 it employed more than 200 people and at its peak in the 1950s employed 500. It specialised in women’s clothing but also made clothes for children and men.

“Lucas always had an eye on fashion trends and so they would send their executives overseas to bring back those trends to Australia and by the 1930s Lucas had a good reputation for quality garments,” Snjez says. “This meant they forged exclusive deals with the likes of Pierre Cardin and Vanity Fair.”

1960s vintage photo: 1960s Fashion photo of women's clothing by the House of Lucas an Australian clothing brand

The Lucas factory has been linked with Ballarat commercial life for 55 years (Source).

In 1968 the company was taken over (Source).

In 1972 Lucas provided financial assistance for expansion, the company becoming a subsidiary of Courtaulds-Hilton (Source).

Innovations

  • 1903 Lucas installed the first electric motor in Ballarat.
  • 1908 Tilly Thompson became Australia’s first female commercial travellor.
  • 1930 Lucas set up Australia’s first warp knitting, dyeing and finishing plant.
  • 1934 Lucas produced Australia’s first screen printed tricot dresses.
  • 1949 Lucas produces Australia’s first nylon Tricot fabric.
  • 1952 Lucas produced Australia’s first nylon permanent pleating.
  • 1962 Lucas produced Australia’s first colour coordinated lingerie and foundation garments (Source).

(Continue Reading about their history HERE).

"Created by Lucas" vintage dress by Lucas Spectator sportswear and australian clothing company

Source: Pinterest

The Fashion Vintage Ads

(stay till the end for some examples of real life outfits)

Here is a collection of the clothing lines that LUCAS was selling at the time of the posting of this 1948 ad:

  • Children’s Line-Betty Lou
  • Spectator Sportswear
  • Lucas Lingerie
  • Jill Heriote
  • Young Times

That green dress!!! Yooza!

1940s vintage ad: 1940s Fashion ad for Lucas Spectator clothing featuring a collection of their 1940s fashion lines, including a childrens clothing line.

Source: Pinterest

“Girls with a job to do!” – 1942 fashion ad.

“Not every woman who works for victory serves in unifrom. You women who have avalanced from everywhere to take up voluntary service and defence work need frocks that are neat, comfortable and cheerful; easy to wash, and long to last….Spectator Sportswear has all the answers!”

The company was doing their part for the war effort as stated in their ads: “Please understand. If stock of Spectator Sportswear at your favourite store aren’t as big as usual, it’s because we’re making ever increasing quantities of equipement for the fighting forces. Though supplies are restricted, the quality you know so well remains unchanged.”

1940s Fashion / 1940s Wartime Fashion: 1942 advertisement for Lucas Spectator clothes

Source: Archive.org

“A Three Star Feature” -1942 fashion ad.

“….like the Flying Fortress combining quality of material, perfection of design and superlative craftsmanship with fine attention to detail…is headed for a direct hit with you women of Australia performing all those urgent, unheroic, behind-the-scene tasks so essential to victory”

1940s Vintage ad / 1940s Fashion Ad: 1942 advertisement for Lucas Spectator clothes featuring Wartime 1940s women's dresses.

Source: Archive.org

Time to put away the track pants when walking the dogs and breakout the skirt suit (in this case cute Dalmatians)! 1945 fashion ad.

Further Reading: The Skirt Suit: A Fall Fashion Trend. The 1940s Edition

1945 vintage ad for women's 1940s fashion from Lucas Spectator Sportswear line. The fashion illustration features a woman in a two piece suit walking dalmatian dogs.

Source: Pinterest

“Dress for the man in your life” -1947 fashion ad.

“In your Spectator Frock or Suit you’re sure to please any masculine eye. Spectator Sportswear is still very sparce, but limited supplies are proudly sold by better shops everywhere”

1940s vintage ad / 1940s fashion ad for Spectator Sportswear by Lucas 1947 women's fashions

Source: Pinterest

1947 fashion ad. “Dress for the man in your life”.

1940s vintage ad / 1940s Fashion Ad: Lucas Spectator outfit from Woman magazine Australia, 1947.

Source: Pinterest

1949 advertisement for Lucas Spectator Ladies Sportswear for their Fall fashion line (I would wear this in a second!).

1940s vintage ad / 1940s Fashion: 1949 advertisement for Lucas Spectator ladies sportswear

Source: Archive.org

“For the town or country look”. A classic jacket suit & a versatile tailored dress-1952 fashion ad.

1950s vintage ad / 1950s Fashion Ad: image1952 advertisement for Lucas Spectactor clothes for women. 1950s dresses.

Source: Archive.org

“At last…a permanently pleated skirt that washes!” YES! Perfect for traveling the friendly skies as you can see our lovely 1950s illustrated model enjoying.

1950s vintage ad / 1950s Fashion Ad for a pleated skirt by Lucas Spectator Sportswear a vintage clothing line from Australia.

Source: Pinterest

Oh my! These outfits are giving off “Look at me” vibes”. 1953 vintage fashion ad.

1950s vintage ad / 1950s Fashion Ad: 1953 advertisement for Lucas Spectator clothes

Source: Archive.org

“For every day on your summer calendar…” 1954 fashion ad.

1950s vintage ad / 1950s fashion ad from 1954 for women's fashions from Lucas spectator fashion

Source: Pinterest

“Strike a high note in…Lucas Spectator Sportswear and be in harmony with every Winter occasion.” 1955 fashion ad.

1950s vintage ad / 1950s Women's Fashion ad: 1955 Lucas Spectator Sportswear featuring 1950s dress and 1950s women's two piece suit.

Source: Pinterest

I’m a sucker for any ad with cute Scottie Dogs in them! Like our 1958 fashion ad.

1950s vintage ad: 1958 fashion ad for LUCAS clothing featuring 2 women in 1950s fashions walking their Scottie Dogs

Source: Pinterest

1960’s summer fashion line. “Love the Sun”.

1960s vintage ad: 1960s Fashion / 1960s Summer Fashion for Women. 1960s Vintage Fashion ad for Women's summer dresses by LUCAS

Source: Pinterest

1961 Fashion book for the Autumn line.

1960s fashion book for autumn 1961 from LUCAS Australian fashion company 1960s women's fashions

Source: National Gallery of Victoria

Vintage Fashion: Examples of what the label looked like in real life

1950 evening gown (Jill Heroite Line & designed by Eve Ogilvie), a bronze full length dress in striped moirè and satin acetate, cut on the bias. GORGEOUS!!

1950s Fashion: 1950 evening gown by LUCAS a bronze full length dress in striped moirè and satin acetate, cut on the bias.

Source: National Gallery of Victoria

1952 Summer Day Dress (Jill Heroite Line & designed by Eve Ogilvie).

1950s Fashion: 1952 Day Dress by Designer LUCAS an Australian company. Women's 1950s fashion.

Source: National Gallery of Victoria

1959 Pierre Cardin Coat produced by the Australian fashion house LUCAS.

1950s Fashion: 1959 Pierre Cardin Coat produced by the Australian fashion house LUCAS

Source: National Gallery of Victoria

Mid Century Lingerie Box by LUCAS Australian Clothing Brand.

I hope you enjoyed this post! It was fun learning about a clothing label I had never heard of before.

Question Time! What outfits or ads did you love the most? Have you heard of this company before? Maybe you own one of their dresses. Share any thoughts in the comment section below and thanks for dropping by!

Further Reading:

Liz