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Tag: fashion designer

Vintage Fashion Designer Spotlight: Ceil Chapman

Ceil Chapman was an American fashion designer who worked in New York City from the 1940s to the 1960s. She was noted for creating glamorous cocktail and party dresses and for working with celebrity clients including television and movie actresses.

1950s vintage image of Debbie Reynolds tries on a 1950s wedding dress with the help of designer Ceil Chapman.

Image:1950s image of Debbie Reynolds tries on a wedding dress with the help of designer Ceil Chapman. (Photo by Seymour Wally/NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images)

For today’s ‘Vintage Fashion Designer‘ spotlight, we will be learning about Ceil’s background in fashion and then taking a look at her stunning fashion designs (as seen thru vintage ads, vintage images & real life dresses avail to purchase).

Let the fashion show begin!

“Here’s one house that understands the importance of the cocktail dress,” 

Women’s Wear Daily 
Vintage image of Fashion Designer 1940s-1970s Ceil Chapman
1950s Fashion Designer: Ceil Chapman-1950s Fashion label


Disclosure: Some of the links on my blog from Etsy , eBay are Affiliate Links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. 

Note: If you click on an item and it is no longer available, don’t fret! The websites I have provided are updated daily with 1000’s of new & vintage items. Just do a quick search and see what you find.


Vintage Fashion Designer Spotlight: Ceil Chapman

Highlights of Ceil’s Life & Career:

  • Born Cecilia Mitchell (1912), she spent her childhood in Rosebank, Staten Island. She moved to Manhattan with her family as a teenager.

  • As a young girl, Chapman designed and made her own clothes. She made her first formal dress when she was 15 years old.

  • She became a Chapman when she married her first husband Samuel, with whom she went into business in 1940.

  • According to her son, Peter Chapman, Ceil Chapman had no formal design training, but learned by working as a “buyer and business woman in the fashion industry”.

  • Peter also stated, that she had design skills akin to engineering and indeed, if one studies her skillful draping and tucking and folding of fabric, it is clear as to what he meant.

  • She wore exclusively black during the day, and almost always wore white for evening functions.

  • She never attended French fashion shows, preferring not to be influenced by Paris when designing for American woman.

  • Chapman was among those who succeeded in adapting Christian Dior’s “New Look” for relatively affordable cocktail wear targeted toward the American ready-to-wear market.

  • Chapman patented numerous designs between 1954 and 1960.

  • Ceil Chapman was reportedly Marilyn Monroe’s favorite fashion designer.

  • She provided the trousseau for Elizabeth Taylor’s 1950 wedding to Conrad “Nicky” Hilton.

  • Other celebrity clients included Deborah Kerr, Greer Garson, Grace Kelly and Aretha Franklin.

  • Several of Chapman’s designs, including a 1948 wedding dress, a late 1940s dress, and three 1950s cocktail dresses, are in the collection of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

  • Chapman died after a two-year illness on Friday, July 13, 1979 (Source).

Further reading about Ceil’s life HERE.


Her Fashion Designs as seen in Vintage Images and Vintage Advertising

Barbara Mullen in Ceil Chapman, photo by Toni Frissell, Washington D.C., Vogue, 1952

1950s Fashion: Barbara Mullen in Ceil Chapman, photo by Toni Frissell, Washington D.C., Vogue, 1952 - 1950s Evening gown / 1950s Dress

Source: Pinterest

Firth Floor Coverings – 1951 featuring a 1950s housewife in a Ceil Chapman dress.

Ceil was astute and derived additional income by lending her name and stylish image for advertising purposes to include Cadillac, which featured elegantly Chapman-dressed models draped over luxury cars. Ceil even appeared, pictured in her studio, in advertisements on behalf of Western Union Telegrams and Playtex (Source).

1950s Vintage Ad for Firth Floor Coverings - 1951 featuring a 1950s housewife in a Ceil Chapman dress. Super Early 1950s Home decor ad.

Source: eBay

As mentioned above here is a Western Union Telegram ad featuring Ceil, photo by Peter Benech, 1956.

1950s vintage ad: American fashion designer Ceil Chapman for Western Union Telegram ad, photo by Peter Benech, 1956

Source: Pinterest

Late 1940s Fashion-1949 Hollywood, CA- Vivid green, coral blue and yellow are combined in the tropical print frock by Ceil Chapman, designed for actress Elizabeth Taylor’s own wardrobe. The colorful afternoon dress features a deep plunging neckline and a pert stand-up collar. The full skirt, with deep pockets hidden in its folds, is topped by a fitted, short-sleeved bodice and a self belt.

Late 1940s Fashion-1949 Hollywood, CA- Vivid green, coral blue and yellow are combined in the tropical print frock by Ceil Chapman, designed for actress Elizabeth Taylor's own wardrobe. The colorful afternoon dress features a deep plunging neckline and a pert stand-up collar. The full skirt, with deep pockets hidden in its folds, is topped by a fitted, short-sleeved bodice and a self belt.

Source: Getty Images

Gown by Ceil Chapman in an ‘Old Gold’ cigarette ad, 1951.

1950s vintage ad for old gold cigarettes featuring a 1950s evening gown by Ceil Chapman

Source: Pinterest

1950s vintage photo of Marilyn Monroe in Korea 1954 in a Ceil Chapman designed purple dress. Marilyn loved the dress so much she asked the designer to make her an identical dress in black.

1950s vintage photo of Marilyn Monroe in Korea 1954 in a Ceil Chapman designed purple dress. Marilyn loved the dress so much she asked the designer to make her an identical dress in black.

Source: Pinterest

1954 Vogue Magazine image of fashion model Evelyn Tripp in a Ceil Chapman gown.

1950s vintage image of Evelyn Tripp Wearing a 1950s dress by Ceil Chapman in 1954 vogue magazine

Source: Fine Art America

1960s Vintage Ad for Kotex featuring a 1962 dress by Ceil Chapman and a Ford Galaxie 500 Convertible.

1960s Vintage Ad for Kotex featuring a 1962 Dress by Ceil Chapman and a Ford Galaxie 500 Convertible.

Source: eBay

Model in layered and ruffled nylon tulle gown, Vogue, October 1, 1950 for ‘William Winklers-Nylon tulle.’

1950s Fashion ad as seen in Vogue: Model in layered and ruffled nylon tulle gown by Ceil Chapman, Vogue, October 1, 1950 for Winklers-Nylon tulle.

Source: Pinterest

1955 Vintage ad for Galey & Lord.

“PARTY MANNERS – The “little-girl-look” assumes a sophisticated manner with the famous Ceil Chapman touch. For that demure but very delectable air…a winged collar and pyramids of white crocheted lace. On gossamer Galey & Lord cotton, of course”.

1950s vintage ad for Galey & Lord featuring a 1950s Dress by Ceil Chapman

Source: Pinterest

I just finishd travelling for a month and let me tell you, having outfits that can do multiple things is a MUST. I just love that Ceil feels the same way with this long skirt that has matching shorts. Plus you can wear the jacket or not for either outfit. Love it! -1950s magazine layout.

1950s Fashion: Travel Outfit by Ceil Chapman for women featuring a skirt that becomes shorts.

Source: Alamy.com

Dressmaker Suit as seen in a 1950s Spadea Pattern Catalog (avail HERE as of April 2023).

Spadea Brand patterns were publicized in Life magazine during the 1950s and 1960s and sold via mail order. The catalog states: American Designers Patterns are original current models from the finest American houses by the top fashion creators in the country. The individuality of the designers, their handling of material… their theories of design are faithfully and strictly followed – so when you buy an American Designers Pattern, you are buying the blueprint of the original, not a copy (Source-Etsy)

1950s Fashion: Ceil Chapman Dressmaker Suit as seen in a 1950s Spadea Pattern Catalog

Source-Etsy CloesCloset

Spadea designer sewing pattern from the 1950s. This cocktail dress design by Ceil Chapman is incredibly flattering with a wide, scooped neckline, bodice and skirt drapery, and short sleeves.

1950s Fashion / 1950s Sewing Pattern: Spadea designer sewing pattern from the 1950s. This cocktail dress design by Ceil Chapman is incredibly flattering with a wide, scooped neckline, bodice and skirt drapery, and short sleeves
1950s Fashion: 1950s dress for evening by Ceil Chapman shown next to it's sewing pattern Fashion Illustration.

Source: Etsy – Mrsdewpew

1952 Fashion ad: “Charm handled in the Ceil Chapman manner – black embroidery etched on bright white organdy, with jersey top $110”.

1950s vintage ad from 1952 featuring a 1950s skirt and top by Ceil Chapman at the French Shop

Source: eBay

Examples of Ceil Champman in “Real Life”

1950’s Ceil Chapman powder blue silk satin, white tulle skirt evening gown.

1950s Fashion: Vintage 1950's Ceil Chapman powder blue silk satin, white tulle skirt evening gown.
1950s Fashion: Vintage 1950's Ceil Chapman powder blue silk satin, white tulle skirt evening gown.

Source: 1stdibs.com

1950s fit and flare shape satin gown in a dusty blue.

1950s Fashion: 1950s fit and flare shape satin gown in a dusty blue by Ceil Chapman

Source: Etsy – VintageBibandTucker

1950s Wedding Dress by Ceil Chapman.

Silver beads, crystas, paillettes and cord floral vine design peplum skirt. Strapless, boned bodice has fold over petal.

Rich and luxurious duchesse satin has beautiful drape and movement.

1950s Fashion / 1950s Wedding Dress. 1950s Ceil Chapman wedding dress.

Source: Vintage Bride

1958 silk tulle & taffeta ballgown in a couple of shades of green. Love those colours!

1950s fashion: 1958 silk tulle & taffeta ballgown in a couple of shades of green by Ceil Chapman - 1950s Vintage Fashion designer.

Source: Getty Images

The 1940s dress below is just so simple it is stunning. A 1940s black silk shantung evening dress (avail as of April 2023 HERE).

1940s Fashion: Vintage 1940s Ceil Chapman Black Silk Shantung Evening Dress.

Source: Etsy – CarnelianVintage

1940s Ceil Chapman Dress – Burnt Orange with a high shawl collar (avail as of April 2023 HERE).

1940s fashion: Vintage 1940s Ceil Chapman Dress - Burnt Orange - High Shawl Collar

Source: Etsy – bellofbow

1960s long sleeve sequin stripes cocktail party dress (avail as of April 2023 HERE).

1960s Fashion: 1960s Ceil Chapman Dress Tight Black Pencil Dress Long Sleeve Sequin Stripes Cocktail Party Dress

Source: Etsy – Frockittome

1950s Ceil Chapman jewelled rhinestone tear drop black velvet shelf bust dress.

1950s Fashion: 1950s Ceil Chapman Jewelled Rhinestone Tear Drop Black Velvet Shelf Bust Dress

Source: shrimptoncouture.com

I am now going to end this post with my dream dress. DREAM! A 1940s silk chiffon gown in a tropical / floral print. Those colours! Drool.

1940s Fashion: 1940s silk chiffon gown in a tropical / floral print by Ceil Chapman.

Source: liveauctiioneers.com

So many beautiful dresses & cool ads but so little space for this post! I hope you enjoyed learning about Ceil and seeing her stunning creations. I really enjoyed putting this together for you. Share you favourites in the comment section below!


Vintage Shopping: There were so many dresses avail for purchase on Etsy that I have started a collection of them on the site so you can take a look at that ones I could not show on this post. Take a look at the vintage dresses HERE.


Further Reading:

Thanks for dropping by!

Liz

Clare Potter-Trend Setting 1930s-1950s American Fashion Designer

Clare Potter Fashion Designer Cow print hat and bag

Clare Potter Design


Disclosure: Some of the links on my blog from Etsy , eBay, are Affiliate Links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Note: If you click on an item and it is no longer available, don’t fret! The websites I have provided are updated daily with 1000’s of new & vintage items. Just do a quick search and see what you find.


Clare Potter-Trend Setting 1930s-1950s American Fashion Designer

Brief History of Clare Potter

Clare Potter was a fashion designer who was born in Jersey City, New Jersey in 1903. She studied at the Art Students League of New York and began her studies at the Pratt Institute of Design in fine arts. After seeing clothes that Potter designed and made for herself, the director of the Pratt Institute recommended that she study costume design.

In 1925, before her graduation, Potter left Pratt to work for Edward L. Mayer, a wholesale dress manufacturer in Manhattan, where she spent three years developing her skills and designing mid-market sportswear.

In the 1930s she was one of the first American fashion designers to be promoted as an individual design talent. Working under her elided name Clarepotter, she has been credited as one of the inventors of American sportswear. Based in Manhattan, she continued designing through the 1940s and 1950s. Her clothes were renowned for being elegant, but easy-to-wear and relaxed ( favoring well-tailored linens and burnished wools in pants, shorts, pajamas, skirts and other sportswear ), and for their distinctive use of colour.

She founded a ready-to-wear fashion company in Manhattan named Timbertop in 1948. The company shared its name with the turkey farm in West Nyack where Potter and her husband, architect J. Sanford Potter, lived.

By the mid-1950s Clare Potter worked independently from a barn on her farm. Her later clothes were more tailored and dressy than her earlier designs.

In the late 1950s the Potters moved into a Japanese-style house on Lake Nebo in Fort Ann, New York that was designed and built by J. Sanford. In addition to their professional work, they bred Dalmatian dogs.

Sanford Potter died in 1994 and, at the age of 95, Clare Potter died in 1999 at their home in Fort Ann (Source).

Meet Clare Potter (thru vintage photos)

1938-Dress designer Clare Potter wearing a circle-printed dress, sitting on the couch of her West Nyack, New York, home, with Siamese cat in her lap and Dalmatian dog sleeping on the floor.

1930s Fashion 1930s photo of fashion designer clare potter in her home

Photo by Horst P. Horst/Conde Nast via Getty Images

Clare with her Dalmatians.

Vintage Photo from the 1930s /1940s of Fashion Designer Clare Potter with her dalmatian dogs out for a walk.

Her Influence on Fashion

American Fashion Designers in 1935 praised Potter, noting, “Her ideas come not from Paris, but from simply being a very wide-awake, active person who understands the wardrobe requirements of the American woman.”

“Large numbers of American women want clothes that are refined,” Ms. Potter said in a 1948 interview with The New York Times. ”I aim to give them in a medium-priced, ready-to-wear costume what they would find in custom-made styles.”

(Source)

Clare Potter Fashions

“June Day” ensemble, 1947. A: Shirtdress in lavender rayon crepe.

Clare Potter American Fashion Designer June Day Dress 1947. Example of a Shirtwaist dress

Source: Google Arts & Culture

Clare Potter Cigarette Advertisement from Vogue, September 1st, 1941, the Autumn Issue.

Clare Potter Fashion Designer -Clare Potter Cigarette Advertisement from Vogue, September 1st, 1941 featuring 1940s fashions designs from Clare.

Source: Etsy

“Dinner Duet” a 1950s Pink, Clare Potter Vintage Dress in Rayon Silk Satin Faille w/ original layout image. Stunning and for sale HERE.

1950s Fashoin: 1950s RARE Clare Potter Vintage Dress Rayon Silk Satin Faille Dinner Duet

Source: Dressing Vintage

1950s Pink, Clare Potter Vintage Dress in Rayon Silk Satin Faille. 1950s Evening Gown / 1950s Fashion.

Beautiful buttons down the back. Simple, but lovely detail.

1950s Pink, Clare Potter Vintage Dress in Rayon Silk Satin Faille. 1950s Evening Gown / 1950s Fashion.

Source: Dressing Vintage

1950s Pink, Clare Potter Vintage Dress in Rayon Silk Satin Faille. 1950s Evening Gown / 1950s Fashion.

The dress below (I think it’s a dress but after a second look maybe pants) is so very slick and stylish and looks extremely comfortable. I will order 3 please!

1940s advertising for Clare Potter Fashion Designs featuring 1940s pants suit in driftwood colour.

Source: sarahescamilla.weebly.com

“She likes easy-flowing lines and no trimmings that ‘stuck on’ to detract from the almost classically simple designs of most of her clothes.”

Beryl Wiliams said of Clare Potter

Linen Dress, 1937–38.

1930s Fashion: 1937-1938 Vintage Linen Dress by Clare Potter.

Source: The Met

1944 photo – Model wearing a slate blue and white sleeveless dress by Clare Potter, jewelry from Harry Winston (John Rawlings Photo).

1940s Fashion-Model wearing a slate blue and white sleeveless dress by Clare potter, jewelry from Harry Winston

Source: Vintage Everyday

During the 1940s, well-known Potter designs included a two-piece bathing suit consisting of separate small top and bloomers.

1943 — Model wearing brown halter top below a white, long-sleeved, cropped jacket and short white skirt with big brown polka-dots; skirt and halter by Clare Potter, white sandals and hair tied back in a mustard-colored scarf.

Model in White Jacket and Polka Dotted Skirt by Pond 1940s Fashion by Clare Potter

Source: Flickr

Bermuda 1947- Models Janet Stevenson and Sabine model summerwear by Designers Clare Potter (left) and Dorothy Cox (right). Photographed by Genevieve Naylor.

Bermuda 1947 Clare Potter 1940s Summerwear fashions.

Source: Flickr

Clare Potter sleeveless blouse in menswear shirting with linen skirt leans against a Buick Roadmaster convertible – Vogue May 15, 1949.

1940s Fashions / 1940s Photo: Clare Potter sleeveless blouse in menswear shirting with linen skirt leans against a Buick Roadmaster convertible - Vogue May 15, 1949.

1946-Model is wearing a sand-colored jersey dinner dress with a fluted hemline. Gorgeous!

ca. 1946 --- Model wearing sand-colored jersey dinner dress with fluted hemline by Clare Potter. 1940s Fashion.

Source: Flickr

I stumbled upon the below image, while looking at vintage yearbooks online and the dress our lovely beauty is wearing in this 1947 yearbook photo (for the beauty queen comp), feels very much like a Clare Potter gown (similar style to the dress above). I think it’s the belt and the cut of the dress. What are your thoughts?

1940s vintage photo of a college beauty in a 1940s dress and 1940s hairstyle as seen in a 1947 yearbook.

Source: Digitalnc.org

1953 November Vogue showcases what one wears when they play scrabble. Which is clearly a silk & rayon satin gown by Clare Potter. That is what you wear right?

1953 Vintage Photo: 1953 November Vogue image showcases what one wears when they play scrabble. Which is clearly a silk & rayon satin gown by Clare Potter.

Source: Flickr

On October 23rd, 1942, Potter designed a blue wool dress that Eleanor Roosevelt wore to meet the King and Queen of England (seen below). Roosevelt had been a fellow founder with Potter and others, of an association of women interested in advancing elegant and fashionable clothing for women, the Fashion Group International, FGI (Source).

1940s Photo: October 23rd, 1942, Potter designed a blue wool dress that Eleanor Roosevelt wore to meet the king and queen of England

Source: Wikipedia

More Fashion Designs

1943 Dress-Photographed by John Rawlings.

1940s Fashion: 1943 Women's Dress by Clare Potter featuring a fur coat over top and a 1940s hat.

Source: Flickr

Sportswear style featuring Bermuda shorts and a low V cut top.

Clare Potter Sportswear Designer -Sportswear style featuring Bermuda shorts and a low V cut top.

Source: Flickr

1940s skirt with matching blouse.

1940s Fashion: 1940s skirt with matching blouse by Clare Potter.

Source: Flickr

Question Time: Have you ever heard of Clare Potter? Do you like her easy to wear relaxed designs? Share your thoughts & your favourite look in the comment section below.

Further Reading:

Liz